Article by Raymond Blanc published in the Times Newspaper 24th of May, 2008 

WEARING a pink bib, and with the crashing noise of the waves below me on one of the most beautiful coastlines in France, I’m enjoying the best bouillabaisse I’ve ever had.

I’m not in Marseilles, where the typical fish platter is often made for the tourists, but in Nice, at the Coco Beach restaurant. Here, the owner, Pierre Quirino, serves me six types of rock fish poached in a heady saffron stock in a dish with a wonderful layering of flavour, starting with the sweetened onion; then fennel for a liquorice element; garlic, of course; tomatoes for acidity, sweetness and colour; and with chilli pepper and bouquet garni building it all up.

There is also an extraordinarily good aoli, containing barrel loads of garlic, which I wash down with a good Château Belen that I’d like to get hold of at the Manoir, but I can’t because they don’t export it.I found this place five years ago, when I came to Nice with my son, Olivier, and, wanting to avoid the tourist haunts, we asked local fishmongers to recommend somewhere.It is one of the reasons I love this region, where some of the gastronomy is as worthy as any Michelin-star experience. Read More »