By Kathy Arnold for the Daily Telegraph Newspaper, UK
Fine food and sea views make bustling Nice a delight in winter, says Kathy Arnold of the Daily Telegraph Newspaper.
Why go?
Sunshine, lemons and mimosa, tall palms, dazzling blue sea — the Côte d’Azur, long a winter escape for the wealthy, is now fun for all. And, unlike resorts that die off-season, Nice is a working city with year-round bustle. Locals shop and eat out in tourist honeypots, such as the Cours Saleya market and the old town. They stroll, cycle, jog and roller skate along the Promenade des Anglais.Nice may be the grande dame of the Riviera, but she is enjoying a facelift. A new tramway runs silently through the centre, past baroque churches and belle époque mansions. The Place Masséna is now spiked with statues that change colour at night. Only Paris has more museums.
Travel by…
Any of seven airlines from 16 airports across the UK. From Belfast, easyJet and Aer Lingus have flights from £33; from London Heathrow, British Airways and bmi flights cost about £100. At Nice Airport, buy a seven-day bus pass (£11); use it on the 98 shuttle bus to town, trams and other buses. Get your bearings with Nice Le Grand Tour, the 90-minute hop-on, hop-off double-decker tour (£13.50).
Stay at…
The Nice Garden Hotel (11 Rue du Congrès; 0033 493 873562, www.nicegardenhotel.com). This centrally located, two-year-old two star punches above its weight, with eight rooms on the ground floor of an apartment block. Doubles from £57, with breakfast.
In a handsome 1920s building, Le Grimaldi (15 Rue Grimaldi; 0033 493 160024, www.le-grimaldi.com) is a sophisticated, 46-room townhouse hotel a short walk from the action. Rooms are lovely and the staff attentive. Doubles from £94, including a copious breakfast, but look for offers on its website.
With a guest list of royals, the rich and the famous, theHotel Negresco (37 Promenade des Anglais; 0033 493 166400, www.hotel-negresco-nice.com) is a Nice landmark. Family owned for 50 years, this theatrical time machine comes with antique furniture and liveried doormen. Doubles from £213, breakfast extra.
Spend the morning…
On the Cours Saleya, with its flower market (flea market on Monday), where Niçois and visitors alike queue at Chez Thérèse for socca, a chickpea crêpe, washed down with rosé wine. Lose yourself in the rabbit-warren of Old Nice, a mix of bazaar-like tat and gems, such as gLOVEme (5 Rue du Marché), with its fine leather goods. At Fenocchio on Place Rossetti, choose from 80 ice cream flavours. Climb 370 steps up the Colline du Château for glorious views of the Baie des Anges to the west and the port to the east.
Lunch in…
La Zucca Magica (4 bis Quai Papacino; 0033 493 562527. Closed Monday), overlooking the port. The inventive vegetarian set menu (£13) will seduce any carnivore. Or go for the plat du jour and dessert (£9) at la Cave de la Tour(3 Rue de la Tour; 0033 493 800331. Closed Monday), a wine shop with a few tables in Old Nice.
Stroll around…
Cimiez, the hilltop suburb. See the iconic Nu Bleu IV, the cobalt blue cut-out of a woman at the Matisse Museum. Return to town for an apéritif at the Cave Wilson (16 Rue Gubernatis. Closed Sunday), a century-old bar, where Giorgio serves top-class wines by the glass.
Buy…
Fragrances and soaps at Molinard (20 rue Saint François de Paule; 0033 493 629050, www.molinard.com). Other traditional shops along rue St-François de Paule include Maison Auer (glacé fruits and home-made chocolates).
Have dinner at…
Luc Salsedo (14 Rue Maccarani; 0033 493 822412,www.restaurant-salsedo.com), where the eponymous chef draws on influences from Asia. A sample £32 menu might include his take on a spring roll, perfectly-cooked fish, and caramel ice cream.
At the tiny, cash-only Côté Marais (4 Rue Pontin; 0033 493 809539. Closed Wednesday), carefully-chosen wines accompany scallops with ginger or rabbit with sour cherries. Bargain £21 menu.
Stay up late at…
The glorious Italian-style opera house, with regular concerts, ballet and opera (www.opera-nice.org).
Recover by…
Settling into a wicker chair and ordering a cocktail at the Ruhl Plage beach café.
At all costs avoid…
The touristy art galleries in St-Paul-de-Vence; instead visit the nearby Fondation Maeght.
For more information…
Contact the Nice Tourist Office (www.nicetourisme.com).
